Ford 6.0L Head Stud Installation

The almighty 6.0L Powerstroke diesel engine sold by Ford in many work series trucks is well known to have several issues. One of those such issues is head gasket failure. Head gasket failure seems to be more common on performance enhanced trucks, but is still very problematic on non modded engines as well.

There is a somewhat easy method to fixing this madness, though. Like most high performance engines, a prestigious company has come to rescue us and fix some of the 6.0L Powerstroke engine's woes. That company, ARP, has designed a stud to be the replacement of the torque to yield bolt design. By providing more clamping force, the stud has severely reduced the head gasket failure rates of these engines.

The proper way to install ARP head studs is to remove the cylinder heads, replace the head gaskets, and reinstall the cylinder head. I have written a separate article for those interested in doing it the right way Replacing The Head Gaskets on the 6.0L. However, the modding community generally believes it is acceptable to change your head bolts out to head studs without ever removing the cylinder head or replacing the head gasket with a little creative innovation. There have been many success stories. I say go for it if you want. Your not going to be out of much money on parts since the head studs are reusable, but you will be out of just a little of your time if things go awry. Just make sure you are prepared to pull it apart and do it right if something were to go wrong.

There are several options out there for head gasket sets. I would not use anything but FORD OEM gaskets. Those kits do come with head bolts, which you will have to throw away or use the weight for a door anchor.

The process of installing head studs can be somewhat difficult for average shade tree mechanic. It takes a fairly strong person (or a really long bar!) to properly torque the head stud nuts. Like I previously mentioned, you can do this one of two ways: replace the head gaskets or insert the head studs one at a time. For those that want to do it the good ole' fashioned way, you should read my article 6.0L Powerstroke Head Removal. This article though, is going to be mentioning how to accomplish this without removing the cylinder heads.

There is a large amount of tools you will need. Check out my Master Recommended Tool List. You will especially need: 1/2inch Torque Wrench Reciprocating Saw Air Hammer A/C Recovery Equipment

Of course you will also need these specialty parts: 6.0L Powerstroke ARP Head Studs 6.0L Powerstroke Head Gaskets (from dealer)

Lets get started.

Installation of Head studs without removing heads.

The intake does not have to be removed, but the valve covers do have to be removed. You will have to open my other articles to get those specific directions. I have linked to them for your convenience.

6.0l Powerstroke Valve Cover Removal

After following the directions to the articles I have written above, you should have both valve covers removed. Now follow these remaining directions.

1. Remove left hand side oil rail.
2. Using HVAC equipment, recover all refrigerant in the A/C system.
3. Disconnect the A/C line going into the evaporator with special disconnect tool.
4. Unbolt and remove the A/C line coming out of the accumulator.
5. Unbolt accumulator plastic housing from evaporator case housing.
6. Remove evaporator case heat shield.
7. Remove the MAP sensor.
8. Remove evaporator case top main support bracket. 4 bolts total.
9. Remove all 8mm case retaining bolts. Approximately 4 on top, 2 on front, 4 on bottom.
10. Split evaporator case. Carefully remove plastic side.
11. Carefully remove the evaporator and accumulator together. They can be split if need be.
12. You will need to plan, mark, and cut a small square out inside of the evaporator case housing to allow removal of the rear bottom bolt. Remember, the plastic you cut out MUST be glued back into the case. This is most cleanly and easily done with a utility knife and a small propane/butane torch. Heat the blade and gently cut through the plastic.
13. Remove one head bolt at the center top, and insert stud. Hand tighten stud. Apply supplied grease to stud. Put on a supplied washer, and spin on a supplied nut. The nut is a 13/16 12pt socket. Torque down to 210 ft.lbs.
14. Continue on following directions above for remaining bolts in this sequence: the center bottom bolt, front inner top, rear inner bottom, front inner bottom, rear inner top, front outer top, rear outer bottom, front outer bottom.
15. Once you get to the last remaining bolt, rear outer top, you can easily remove the head bolt. The head stud does not have enough clearance to be inserted without removing the rocker arm dowel pin located in the last head stud hole. Just use needle nose pliers, gently lift and remove the dowel pin, insert your head stud, and reinsert the dowel pin. It is crucial that the dowel pin gets put back into place. Hand tighten the stud, and torque nut to 210 ft.lbs.
16. Reassemble rest in the order removed.
17. Using HVAC equipment, properly vacuum and refill the a/c system.
18. Remove right hand oil rail.
19. Remove one head bolt at the center top, and insert stud. Hand tighten stud. Apply supplied grease to stud. Put on a supplied washer, and spin on a supplied nut. The nut is a 13/16 12pt socket. Torque down to 210 ft.lbs.
20. Continue on following directions above for remaining bolts in this sequence: the center bottom bolt, front inner top, rear inner bottom, front inner bottom, rear inner top, front outer bottom, rear outer top, front outer top.
21. Now you are at the last remaining bolt, the rear outer bottom. This is where the trick begins. Completely loosen the head bolt. Pull outward as far as you can. You now have to cut the head bolt in half to remove it. Begin by covering all exposed engine to shield from metal particles. Use of cutoff wheel, or reciprocating saw, to cut the head bolt.
22. You will then have to use a air hammer to dent the firewall to allow clearance for the head stud. The firewall has to be dented everywhere the stud will lay against as marked in this picutre.
23. Start the stud into the hole. Take a long pry bar and place the end on the top of the stud. Take a hammer and softly tap the stud into the hole. If you properly dented the firewall enough, the stud will easily but surely go into the hole. If it doesn't move when you tap it, remove the stud and try creating slightly more dents as noted in the picture. Hand tighten the stud, and torque nut to 210 ft.lbs.
24. Reassemble the engine in order removed.

Be sure to refill the cooling system with the proper coolant while following the directions in the Coolant Refill Procedure.